America Eats was a project of the Federal Writers’ Project, an initiative of the Works Progress Administration of FDR’s New Deal. The Writers’ Project consisted mostly of out-of-work journalists of little renown, but it also included those who would soon become some of America’s finest writers, such as Zora Neale Hurston.
America Eats was the final project to be started by the Writers’ Project, and it’s publication was abandoned when the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbour. But the unfinished manuscript – actually just boxes of unedited pieces submitted by writers from all over the country on what America ate, how it ate, and how it felt about what it ate – sat for some 60 years in the Library of Congress. That is until Mark Kurlansky found them while researching another food writing anthology and collected the most interesting pieces in his latest book, The Food of a Younger Land.
All this is just interesting background for a recipe for hot buttered rum out of The Northeast Eats, the section of the book concerning the eating and drinking habits of New England and New York, and written by one of the brightest stars on the Project roster, Kenneth Roberts.
Pour one fair-sized drink (or jigger) of rum into an ordinary table tumbler: add one lump of sugar, a pat of butter the size of a single hotel helping, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, fill up the tumbler with boiling water, stir well and sip thoughtfully. If too sweet, use less sugar in the next attempt. If not sweet enough, add more. If the cinnamon isn’t wholly satisfactory, try cloves. If more butter is desirable, use more.
Of course, replacing that lump of a sugar with a teaspoon of honey (or more, or less) is sure to make this drink even better.






